There’s no need to go out and spend a fortune on a high-end suspension system. Knowing how to build a 4 link suspension can save you precious bucks. However, not everyone has the minimum knowledge to perform a DIY approach, so they don’t even dare to do it.
Thankfully, we’re here to guide you. Whether you don’t have time to build a suspension yourself, or you’re not confident with constructing a 4 link rear suspension, our expert’s step-by-step guide can help.
In this guide, we’ll take you through the process we followed to build a 4 link rear suspension, starting with the basics and working our way up. By following our DIY process, you can create a system that’s both stable and comfortable, while making sure your car is still able to handle well on the road.
At A Glance
How To Build A 4 Link Rear Suspension
Here we’re going to demonstrate a DIY process of building a 4 link suspension we followed previously. Read every portion carefully and abide by every step of the process. So, let’s start.
We got a frame-rail on our left and a frame-rail on our right through here. This is another good divide between the frames, so we took a measurement of the width of the axles and made a mark on each side for the axle in the middle, and with a laser, we’ll be able to line the center of the axle up precisely in line with the center point on which we’re going to put the rover.
It’s a formula as far as logistics and building are concerned that is more complicated than anything you’ve considered. This is why we needed to give it a look and see what kind of angles we would be looking at with the suspension that W is constructing. So we marked where some of the rides are set up relative to the suspension that we’re constructing.
So this type of coil-sprung layout is the one which you’ll find on lots when it comes to personal-area truck series. However, based on whether a vehicle is a leaf sprung, this design will not apply. Instead, this blueprint would be available to any vehicle being coil sprung. The springs would invariably be parallel.
You have one, two, three, or four links, then the fifth one here is a Panhard bar. It has four links, but technically it’s still a five-link. No one knows what to call a five-link, but in reality, you end up with five links. As a result of its parallel functionality. It isn’t so lock-jawed as a 4 link; it moves to one side.
However, you must ensure that the rubber mat is tucked under the wheel well to keep the axle from rolling away from the chassis. We have a double triangulated four-link that we like; this one is actually a trimbec because of the way it tightens and shocks and how the wheels are controlled by the bottom and top links; there aren’t scatter guides.
How we’re proceeding is a semi-triangulated channel, and this is just due to packaging. We have replicated this in numerous ways in an attempt to make this work with what we’re constructing currently.
But there is no way we can do it. There is just not much space. The way in which the frame rails are placed makes it so that we are not at liberty to do very much; we are only able to implement sandbox pick, of the sun, ground, and sky.
You might want to remember these two points wherever you are designing your suspensions. One is 25 minimum between the lower and upper components. This is just one of several reasons. The most significant reason is that it provides steering power. The bigger the separation is between that lower and upper length, the higher the chance for the axle to break loose.
Since we welded the steel rod to a big panel and after that welded that large pole to the frame, we’ve actually got a lot more rigidity, and there will be a greater likelihood of the construct ripping because they’re spreading the load across a foot instead of just a few inches.
Additionally, there are three holes in the bracket for a reason. It is intended for tuning. And that’s the reason. Disabling the body is the reason why you are able to rotate and change your lengths for the lower and upper control arms.
We’ve got these brackets situated beside the exhibition that we’re going to dispose of and are going to fail to regulate then we will not be having any issues with maintaining clearance. Additionally, we need to reposition the Sway Bar. Our purpose is the new sway bar, so we need to relocate it somewhere and we only require a little instant to act.
If we lose the jack, you can see some of our suspension in the event that you take it back, believe it or not. Yep. Everything is looking good. You can see there’s still the triangulation that we talked about, rather. And everything looks good, this is what we intended it to be. This is the method that was planned. We’re also meeting all our preliminary expectations.
Important Tips to Follow While Building a 4 Link Rear Suspension
As you’re working with heavy metal and tools like welders and grinders, anything can happen in no time. So, don’t forget to bear the safety tips in mind we mentioned below.
- Be sure to check for wheel bearings before starting construction. These bearings will play a big role in how well your 4-link system behaves overall and can cause problems if they are not properly cared for. Make sure to replace any that appear to be wearing down or that feel loose during use.
- Make sure the suspension components are properly wired and secure. This will ensure that the system remains intact during crashes or other events.
- Keep your vehicle’s structure and equipment safe while building the system by following proper safety procedures. For example, make sure any new parts are tested before they are installed on your car.
- Be aware of potential dangers when working on your car’s suspension system. For example, do not operate heavy tools on the frame or components of the system. Instead, use care when handling these materials as they can cause serious injury or damage to your vehicle.
What Are the Advantages of a 4 Link Suspension?
A 4-link suspension has a number of advantages over other types of suspension designs.
First, a 4-link suspension provides better stability and handling. The four links keep the axle perfectly parallel to the ground, which improves the vehicle’s stability and cornering ability.
Second, a 4-link suspension is more forgiving of road irregularities. The links absorb shocks and bumps better than other types of suspensions, providing a smoother ride for the passengers.
Third, a 4-link suspension is easier to tune than other designs. You can easily adjust the camber and toe angles to get the best handling and performance from your vehicle.
Finally, a 4-link suspension is more durable than other designs.
At this point, you might know how to build a 4 link rear suspension. If yes, then it’s okay, but if not, you can contact us anytime for precise instructions. However, remember to follow the safety tips during the project strictly.